Convention has it that when making a selection of wines for a meal, one starts with the aperitif and works through to the dessert or digestif.

Let’s be unconventional and start with the wine Tim James, guest taster Ingrid Motteux and I enjoyed most in a line-up of recent releases, Solms Delta Gemoedsrus 2010. Possibly easier to say after a glass or two, or think of in translation as ‘peace of mind’, it is named for the title track of the farm’s late musician-in-residence, Alex van Heerden.

In true Solms Delta fashion the wine doesn’t follow the usual winemaking trail. Winemaker, Hilko Hegewisch describes it as ‘An innovative new approach to ‘port’ wine.’ Although its analysis – 18.5% alcohol, 78.8 grams of residual sugar – might suggest such style, one doesn’t taste analyses, so don’t be surprised that this tastes – delicious and different.